Philip Briggs covers everything from the low-key capital Hargeisa and mediaeval port of Berbera to peerless rock art sites such as Las Geel, and the scenery and wildlife of the Daallo Escarpment, towering 2,000m high above the pristine reefs of the Gulf of Aden. Somaliland's ruined cities and historical ports date back 5,000 years and have links with ancient Egypt and Axum in northern Ethiopia, as well as the Ottoman and British Empires.